Odawara: A Japanese castle town inviting travelers to become a daimyo for a day

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Odawara, Japan
CNN
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The precise positioning of the traditional “Kabuto” helmet and the adjustment of the cord chin strap complete this transformation.

Simon Celestine arrived at Odawara Castle as a tourist from France, but now he is master of one of Japan's most impressive feudal-era castles – if only for a day.

Located just 50 miles (80 kilometers) from central Tokyo, Odawara is a quaint port city with a rich history rooted in the powerful Hojo clan, loyal Fuma ninja, and the climatic battle that took place here in 1590 to shape modern Japan.

However, more often than not, foreign visitors pass through the city on a bullet train while sticking to the “Golden Route” destinations of Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka.

With foreign visitor numbers now surpassing the peak seen in the months immediately preceding the pandemic, the Japanese government is keen to encourage tourists to explore some of the country's lesser-known but equally impressive destinations.

Odawara was chosen as one of the first recipients of government assistance to tell her story, and local tourism authorities have been busy devising initiatives that capitalize on her strengths.

Given its history and truly majestic castle, it made sense to give visitors an insight into Odawara by making them the master (daimyō) of the domain – including costumes.

“We really hope our campaign will put Odawara on the map and encourage more people to visit and stay overnight,” Naoya Asao, head of international promotion for the Odawara Tourism Association, told CNN Travel.

“Odawara is often seen as the gateway to more popular destinations, like Hakone or the Izu Peninsula, but there are so many things to see and do here. We have a great history and we think making visitors 'Daimyo for the Day' is a unique way to share that.” .

Celestine, 37, chose to join three friends for the curated experience that began with them stripping down to their 21st century clothes.

With the help of costume experts who usually dress up actors appearing in old Japanese films and TV series, the visitors first donned long white undershirts that were tied with a belt around the waist. They were then required to wear leggings that were loose above the knees but pulled tightly over the shins before guards, traditionally made of iron splints attached to chain armour, were attached.

Individual armored sleeves covered in colorful designs were tied into place one by one before the chest armor was attached. With a wide belt at the waist, each of the modern warriors was given their weapons.

They were told that the long sword, or katana, is for striking enemies, while the shorter wakizashi must remain sheathed until its owner commits a serious enough sin to require seppuku, or ritual self-disembowelment using an L-shaped cut in Stomach.

The coach added that he very much hopes the visitors' wakisazi will remain in their sheaths for the duration of their stay.

With the addition of Kabuto's elegantly curved, jet black helmet, the four Daimyo are ready to explore their world.

As they exited the visitor center, the four foreigners attracted curious glances from the locals that may have contributed to the daimyo's initial lack of swagger. They soon discovered their nobility, however, when they crossed the castle's wide outer moat and were greeted by finely dressed representatives of warrior armor from Japan's Warring States period, the civil war decades of the 15th and 16th centuries.

Strategically located on the narrow plain between the waters of Sagami Bay and the mountains that rise steeply to the slopes of Mount Fuji, Odawara controlled virtually all road traffic between the ancient capital of Kyoto and Edo, which eventually became modern Tokyo.

Rival clans fought for control of Odawara until the Hojo family made it a base for lands that covered much of what is today the Kanto region of eastern Japan, where the castle was the ultimate symbol of their authority and power during much of the 16th century. Five generations of the Hojo clan had made Odawara Castle one of the most feared castles in the country and it had never been successfully stormed in battle.

However, its defenders were defeated when Toyotomi Hideyoshi besieged the city in 1590 with an army of about 250,000 men and starved the Hojo clan into submission. A vengeful Hideyoshi ordered the castle razed to the ground, while new buildings later built on the same site were severely damaged by earthquakes until the Meiji government ordered the final demolition of the castle in 1870.

The five-storey donjon in reinforced concrete was only rebuilt in 1960, with other historic structures within the 106-hectare castle park restored to their former glory, including thick defensive walls, guard towers and a series of cleverly designed defensive gates. .

Behind the stunning cherry trees in spring, Celestine and his fellow daimyo crossed another defensive ditch and passed through a gate to find themselves in a cobblestone courtyard facing the impressive main gate.

Visitors were greeted by a group of musicians playing the traditional taiko drum, shamisen and shinobu flute, and watched a performance highlighting the skills of the legendary Japanese ninja, as actors told a story of loyalty and revenge illustrated with illustrations. Sword fights, wall jumps and acrobatic rolls.

Odawara is the traditional home of the Fuma clan of ninja, who were loyal supporters of the Hojo family. A museum dedicated to the ninja opened on the castle grounds in 2019, where visitors were encouraged to try out a traditional curved sword or improvised weapons, even if they were something as innocuous as chopsticks.

The museum also attempts to dispel some of the myths surrounding ninjas, who were as much spies and healers as mercenaries.

The innermost courtyard is across another bridge over a moat, up a flight of steep steps and through a gate set into a two-metre-thick wall. At night, the bright white donjon is lit up and can only be reached by another flight of steep steps – clearly the castle's defenders were keen to keep their enemies at bay.

The donjon houses a small museum of local treasures, including beautifully preserved manuscripts, kimonos and swords. Take the daimyo to a reception on the fifth floor. They were presented with manuscripts bearing the official seal of the Hugo clan, and admired their grounds with glasses of champagne from the balcony that ran around the top of the castle.

The upper level of the castle is also where the Flying Monk gives mindfulness classes. Tomomi Iwayama He has taken his meditation and mindfulness sessions online during the pandemic, and has worked with major companies around the world, but he is happy to return to teaching in person.

Participants are invited to sit cross-legged with their backs straight on square cushions on the floor to better focus on inhaling and exhaling from deep within their bodies. With daily practice, even people with minds that tend to wander, Iwayama says, should be able to simply focus on inhaling and exhaling to achieve relaxed mindfulness for up to 30 minutes.

The day ends with a banquet fit for a daimyo at a nearby restaurant, accessed through a traditional garden of mosses, trimmed trees and stone lanterns. Masters are greeted by kneeling geisha and can warm themselves beside a sunken irori stove. A multi-course kaiseki meal featuring local delicacies, including sashimi caught from local boats and sansai mountain vegetables.

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While the lords eat and toast each other with the local drink sake, the elegantly dressed geisha dance, play the shamisen and make sure their glasses stay on top.

The Daimyo return to the castle where they spend the night upstairs, just as their ancestors did. It is important to make the most of the time they have left as tomorrow they will return to being a commoner.

The “Master of the Castle” experience can be booked through the official website Odawara Tourism Association website.